BEFORE LEAVING
Make sure that your animal will be happy to travel… i.e. will it suffer from travel sickness? Will it be homesick? If it is the case, you may have a much less pleasant vacation. Fortunately, there are some alternatives.

Check with your family and friends. Perhaps a person you know could “baby sit”, or you could leave your pet at a reputable facility. (HVRS offers boarding.)

PLANNING MY ANIMAL'S VACATION
Check with airline, railroad or cruise companies to find out if animals are allowed to travel and
if yes, what type of reservations and what arrangements should be made.

Make sure pets are allowed in the hotel, motel or campground.

BY PLANE
First, find out about the airline rules, the reservations to be made and the procedures that need to be followed when boarding. (Get the information as soon as possible!)

Try to find as direct a flight as possible or with the least amount of stops.

Arrive early at the airport in order to place your animal in the baggage hold and retrieve it quickly when you reach your destination.

BY CAR
Ideally, if your pet is not used to car travel, have it take small rides during the days preceding your departure so it will get accustomed to it.

Plan stops every 2 hours or so for exercise, nature’s needs and snacks.

To avoid “accidents” in the car, it is preferable to give the main meal at the end of the day.

Don’t forget that you should never leave your pet in a parked car for a long period of time, especially on sunny days. The temperature in the car goes up quickly and this could have terrible consequences for your pet (heat strokes can be deadly!).

BY BUS, TRAIN OR BOAT
Obtain information from companies to make sure you can travel with your pet. If possible, note the various procedures and requirements you need to follow.

Note that VIA Rail does not allow pets in passenger cars, but they can travel in a cage as “registered luggage”.


Vaccination AND OTHER MEDICAL INFORMATION
Generally speaking, if you are thinking about travelling in the United States, make sure that the rabies vaccine schedule is up to date and that your animal is in good health. As an extra precaution, ask your veterinarian for a health certificate (a medical exam will obviously be necessary).
If you are thinking about travelling abroad (Europe for example), refer to the Canadian Food Inspection Agency site, under “Animals/Exports” www.inspection.gc.ca. You will find all the information you need regarding vaccines, necessary documents, rabies serum antibody titers and the type of identification required for your animal (microchip and/or tattoo).

Memo to help you find what you want on the site. Click on:

• Exports
• Live Animals and Animal Products
• Pet Travel Scheme
• Pets
• European Community - Pet Dogs, Cats and Ferrets
• List of Countries (choose the desired country)
  
  For more information, contact the consulate of the country in question.

  If your pet seems anxious or if it is agitated in the car for example, your veterinarian can prescribe some medication in order to make your pet’s trip and yours more pleasant. (This requires a medical exam.)

GENERAL ADVICE
Make sure your pet is wearing a collar with complete information and/or an identification tag.

Have on hand its favourite toy, a leash, some food (preferably kibbles) and fresh water.

In addition, make sure the transport cage (if necessary) is solid, big enough to allow your animal to move (turn around, lie down and stand up). It must have a waterproof floor, a food and water area, and it must lock securely.

HAVE A NICE TRIP!

IN THE HOUSE:
To avoid falls, put up window screens.

Many plants are toxic when ingested. You can refer to the following site for more info: www.aspca.org

Try to cover electric cords because kittens and puppies that are teething just love chewing on them (risk of electrocution).

Don’t leave your pet unsupervised around a burning fireplace or a heater that is turned on; it could burn itself.

Don’t let it play with plastic bags because it could choke.
Pick up all small objects that it could take in its mouth and swallow.

IN THE GARAGE:
Animals just love the taste and odour of antifreeze and windshield washer fluid. Make sure containers are securely closed and out of reach. Clean up messes on the floor as soon as possible.

Put away paint, gasoline, oil, rat poison and any other chemical product.

KITCHEN, LAUNDRY ROOM AND BATHROOM:
Make sure to turn off the stove and unplug the iron when you leave the room.

Keep cleaning products out of reach since they can be toxic (bleach, Swiffer, WetJet, Mr. Clean, etc.).

Keep washer and dryer doors closed and before turning them on, make sure your pet is not in them!

Make sure your pet does not have access to beauty products (shampoo, sunscreen, nail polish remover, etc.) and medications.

IN THE GARDEN:
As with indoor plants, some outdoor plants can be toxic; refer to the internet site previously mentioned and look up “in the home”.

Close the door of the storage shed securely in order to avoid accidents with tools and gardening products (fertilizers, pesticides, weed killers, etc.).

If possible, do not allow your pet to come in contact with your lawn or garden if treated with chemicals.

ADVICE:
Good training (teach your dog not to leave your yard) could help avoid your pet getting hit by a car. You can also install a high enough fence so that it cannot jump over it. The fence should also be close enough to the grounds so that your animal cannot crawl under it.

MERRY CHRISTMAS:
Christmas decorations are also potentially hazardous if your pet chews on them or swallows them (icicles, angel hair, lights, glass ornaments, etc.).

Christmas plants are also toxic to animals; try to keep them out of their reach (poinsettia, holly, mistletoe).

As with humans, your pets can sometimes hurt themselves taking walks or on outings in the woods. It is very important that you bring a first-aid kit with you because accidents happen quickly. With a first-aid kit, you will be able to give basic treatment while waiting to consult a veterinarian.

It is very easy to put together a homemade kit. You will need the following items:

• Elastic bandage: the elastic bandage is very useful to make a pressure bandage when there is bleeding or to immobilize a limb during transportation to a veterinary hospital.
• Sterile gauze: use gauze to disinfect minor wounds or to wipe injuries.
• Gauze bandage: it can be used as a bandage but also as a makeshift muzzle if the animal is aggressive.
• Hibitane Disinfectant: to disinfect minor wounds; make sure your disinfectant has not expired.
• Bandage scissors.
• Fabric adhesive tape: to make a bandage.
• Gloves: to avoid spreading bacteria.
• Tongue depressor: very useful to make a splint when there is a possible fracture.
• Rectal thermometer: ideally in Celsius and Fahrenheit.
• Your veterinarian’s phone number: it is very important that your veterinarian’s phone number be in the kit. In case of an accident or if your pet shows signs of discomfort, you must immediately contact a veterinarian. He/she will tell you what first-aid treatment can be administered until you have the opportunity to see someone. You can ask for the veterinarian’s card on your next visit.

You can very easily get all these items at the pharmacy. However, there are also kits available in pet shops. Make sure you have all the items. Some companies sell kits that are in the shape of a backpack for dogs; this way your pet can carry its own kit.

In conclusion, it is important to always walk your animal on a leash in order to avoid unfortunate accidents. When there is an injury or if your pet shows signs of discomfort, consult your veterinarian. For more information, contact an animal health technician or your veterinarian.

Be cautious!

Did you know that up to 50% of our pets are overweight? This situation may seem normal, but having a few pounds too many often has major consequences that affect the quality of life of our companions. Higher risk during anesthesia, joint problems and hypertension are some of the different consequences associated with excess weight.

The Hôpital Vétérinaire Rive-Sud gives you the opportunity to participate in a weight-loss program. The hospital’s main goal is to give you advice and to support you in this undertaking. First, the animal is weighed; then a customized program is developed according to your pet’s specific needs. A monthly weighing is necessary for a good follow-up and to make sure the program is going well.

A few basic rules are essential to succeed in a weight-loss program. First, daily food must be given in a graduated container in order to give the necessary amount only. Each pet in the house must have its own food bowl; this way the exact amount for each animal can be measured. In a weight-control diet, every small supplement must be calculated. Table food and treats are an important source of calories; they must be reduced to a minimum to maximize results and help manage the weight-loss diet. It is especially important to remember that exercise is very beneficial to the weight-loss process.

If your pet has a few kilos too many, do not hesitate to contact us to receive advice from our qualified personnel.

When a health problem is detected early, one can act more quickly and improve the chances of success of the treatment. This way, we can prolong a pleasant life for our four legged companions. The annual exam (biannual for some animals) is vital to assess your animal’s health and to collect data for a follow-up. In addition, there are various diagnostic tests (blood tests, urine analysis, blood pressure, X-rays, etc.) that help establish a bill of health.

At the Hôpital Vétérinaire Rive-Sud, the veterinary and technical staff, in cooperation with the reception staff, has decided to develop a health program for its senior/geriatric patients. When your pet reaches the age of 7 years, during the annual check-up, we will hand out a questionnaire to you; this will allow us to better answer your pet’s needs. Please take the time to fill it out before seeing your veterinarian.

Then, during the meeting with your veterinarian, you will discuss your pet’s needs and have the opportunity to talk about any questions and concerns you might have. A short-term hospitalization (usually one day) will allow us to carefully assess your pet’s health and do the necessary diagnostic tests. Afterward, the veterinarian will inform you of the results and give his recommendations.

Benefits of The Senior Health Program:

• Early detection of health problems permitting a rapid intervention and a better treatment plan.
• Annual blood analysis to improve security during anesthesia (drug choice, monitoring, etc.)
• Increased safety during administration of drugs, and detection of concomitant diseases
• Appropriate senior diet recommendations based on the health check-up.
• Allowing for the best medical follow-up possible.

Senior Patient Questionnaire
To help you know your senior pet better, here are a few questions that you should ask yourself.

During the last year:

For cats:

• Obesity
• Dental problems
• Hyperthyroidism
• Chronic renal insufficiency
• Cardiovascular disease
• Diabetes
• Cancer
• Anemia
• Liver disease

A senior health program (exam and diagnostic tests) is very important to detect these diseases early, and successfully develop suitable treatment and follow-up plans.

Senior Cat Health Program:

Basic

• Yearly exam (weight follow-up, dental evaluation, ophtalmoscopy, otoscopy, cardiopulmonary auscultation, abdominal palpation, dermatological evaluation, detection of lumps, rectal examination, myoarthroskeletal and neurological evaluation if necessary)
• Hematology / Biochemistry / Electrolytes / T4 (thyroids)
• Urology
• Blood pressure

Depending on the case : thorax/abdomen X-rays, ECG (electrocardiogram) cardiac/abdominal ultrasonography.

In order to evaluate carefully your pet’s health, a short-term hospitalization (one day usually) will allow us to do the necessary diagnostic tests.

Basic cost: Yearly exam, hematology, biochemistry, electrolytes, T4, urology, blood pressure, short-term hospitalization.

Bad breath is often a sign of mouth problems. Food is not the only factor contributing to your pet’s health, dental hygiene also plays a very important role.

To avoid tartar build-up on your dog’s teeth, you must get into the habit of brushing its teeth at a young age. Tartar is a yellow or brown deposit on the teeth. It is the accumulation of a lot of bacteria and small bits of food; in the long run, the tooth will be completely covered with tartar. Tartar can even infiltrate under the gum which creates a space between the gum and the tooth; the tooth then becomes less solid since its attachment is reduced. With time it becomes loose and can even fall.

To avoid bad breath, tartar build-up, gingivitis, loose and falling teeth, daily brushing is a must.
It is possible to heal a mouth that has problems! If your dog already has tartar build-up, red gums, bad breath… scaling will get rid of the tartar and clean out accumulated bacteria from under the gums. This way, your dog will enjoy a renewed well-being thanks to a clean mouth.

Afterward, it will be easier for you to keep your dog’s mouth clean by brushing its teeth.
Do not hesitate to contact our dentistry specialists to get more information about all the new products that can help keep your pet’s mouth clean and healthy.

1. Prevention against infections and advise not to let the puppy go outside before it gets
    all its vaccines?

2. Behavioural prevention and let the dog go every where outside before the age of 3 months?

This choice does not exist. No pet owner sterilizes his clothes and shoes before entering his home. Therefore, he brings viruses in the isolated dog’s environment. It is recommended to :

• Vaccinate the dog according to the protocole determined by the veterinarian.
• Adapt the vaccination protocol if the veterinarian considers that there is an increase risk if the dog goes outside as young as 6 to 7 weeks of age.
• It is not recommended to stop the puppy from going outside before the age of
  3 months.

By Dr. Joël Dehasse, veterinary behaviourist.

Why must we let the puppy go outside quickly?
Between the age of 6 to 12 weeks, your puppy must learn like any one- to four-year-old child. It is important to stimulate its brain. It must come in contact with all those stimulating things around which it will live in the future. Objects and living things that it will not have come in contact with during this critical period of socialization will be seen as dangerous by the animal. For example, many dogs hate cars because their first experience with it is during the long trip from the breeding place to their new home. Since they were ill that first time, car trips have become an unpleasant aspect of their lives. That is why there should be many first experiences at an early age: cats, cars, bikes, trains, men, children, water, stores...

Is there a risk of viral diseases?
Yes! But not letting the puppy go out will not change anything. We are not disinfected from head to toe when we come in after an outing, and viruses enter your home easily. Not letting your dog go outside will keep it from learning, and it will be exposed to viruses anyway!

By Dr Gérald Muller, veterinary behaviourist.

Every person living in a house should adopt the same habits and the same vocabulary in order to facilitate the puppy’s training. See the page on Basic Notions.
Every person living in a house should adopt the same habits and the same vocabulary in order to facilitate the puppy’s training. See the page on Basic notions.

Positive reinforcement: stroke, pet and reward the animal only when it obeys a command or behaves properly; avoid stroking it in other circumstances. This will make the dog more receptive to training. In other words, no stroking or “free” rewards. This will also help the puppy develop its independence.

Feed your pet according to a strict schedule: take the recommended amount of food per day and divide it in 3 meals, given at regular hours (even on the weekend!). After 20 minutes, remove the food and leave a little bit of water. The puppy will need to relieve itself 10 to 20 minutes after eating its meal; be ready to take it outside!

Go outside with your dog regularly, holding it on a leash and always using the same door. Choose a place where it can relieve itself in the summer as well as in the winter. Always bring it to this place and say words like “toilet”, “pee” or any other word of your choice. This must all be done with enthusiasm. The puppy should have fun doing what you want it to do and this must show in your tone of voice; use a stimulating and happy tone. If your neighbours look at you in a funny way, it means that you are using the right method! Once at the chosen area, you can play with your puppy and stimulate it. You will notice that it won’t take long before it does its business. When this happens, congratulate it immediately: “Good dog!”. Give it a small reward if you want to (a piece of dog biscuit). Remember that you have only 4 seconds to express satisfaction; therefore, it is important to reward it at the exact moment it does what it is supposed to do. If it doesn’t do anything after 5 minutes, it is useless to remain any longer outside. If you have a cage, put it back in it instead of letting it walk freely around the house, or keep it inside on a leash so as to always have an eye on it.

If you catch it crouching down to relieve itself in the house, you can say “NO” while “growling” softly, and above all without slapping it! Bring it immediately outside and there, demonstrate happiness by saying the special words chosen for its nature’s needs. Whether it relieves itself or not, it is important to act happy once you are outside. It is the contrast in your expression that will enable it to understand the difference.

If you find urine or stools in the house, or if you catch it right after the fact, ignore the mess and pick it up when the animal cannot see you. It is useless to reprimand a puppy; it will not associate its mess with the punishment, even if it looks miserable. After one second, the action is already gone and forgotten for the dog in training. It will look miserable, but it will not be able to recognize that it has done its business in the wrong place a few seconds ago. You should definitely not put its nose in its urine or stools; doing this will not help it learn where it should have gone and the animal will quickly become confused, thinking that it should not relieve itself! Next time, it will try to hide to do it!

To clean an area soiled with stools or urine, avoid any ammonia-based solution (Lysol for example), because the odour of this product, which is close to the odour of uric acid, could prompt your pet to return to the soiled area. Once cleaned with soap, you can rinse the area with a half-and-half vinegar and water solution. This mixture will mask the pheromones (hormones that are distinctive of each animal and that humans cannot smell) and the urine smell.

CAGE
The cage or “house” represents a burrow, a shelter, safety for your dog; the animal needs it. For the house, plan a wire cage adapted to the dog’s adult size. Dimensions should allow it to lie on its side while stretching its legs, without allowing its digits to go through the wire mesh. It should also allow your dog to lie flat with its legs stretched out in front. During the puppy’s growth, you should limit the space in the cage with an adjustable panel, so the puppy does not have more space than he needs to lie down with its legs stretched out in front. Contact your cage manufacturer to get a separating wire panel built for this use. You could also use a Plexiglas or plastic panel. Avoid wood because your dog could scratch its foot pads or gnaw part of it! A dog will not want to relieve itself where it sleeps. That is why housebreaking of a dog that lives in a cage goes faster. In addition, the cage will not allow your dog to break things in the house in your absence or during the night. Your puppy must get used to the cage gradually; it must be pleasant and not stressful for your dog. It should not be a punishment. It is possible for your dog to get used to the cage if the experience is fun. You can also offer a treat each time it enters the cage.

Housetraining is an important step in your puppy’s education. You might as well take all the time you need to start off well!

Don’t hesitate to ask professionals for advice on this matter; it will be our pleasure to give you all the information you need.

Prepared by:
Catherine Drolet, dmv et Jean Lessard, dog trainer

Grieving stages :

• Shock and denial: this stage is characterized by shock and negation. The child will look stunned.
• Anger: the child will feel guilty towards himself or the veterinarian and will have the impression he/she has done something wrong.
• Bargaining: the child will have a tendency to bargain with “God” by promising this or that if the animal is saved.
• Sorrow and depression: at this stage the child will feel the grief of losing his/her pet. The length of this stage depends on the closeness of the ties the child had with his/her companion.
• Acceptance: with time, the child will learn to accept the situation, and will be able to “move on”. This is a sign that the child has accepted reality. He/she will then be able to love another animal.

In the case of “pathological” or abnormal grief, the child gets stuck at a particular stage for months or even years, sometimes indefinitely.

Behaviours indicating that a child is suffering from pathological grief:
With good moral support, most children will accept the death of an animal without too many problems. However, some children can react violently or present these signs:

• The child abnormally clings to his/her loved ones.
• The child has persistent nightmares.
• The child stays away from his/her family and friends.
• The child is more nervous and a lot less confident.
• The child who was toilet trained regresses.
• The child shows behaviour problems and/or his/her grades are going down.

When these signs appear immediately after the death of an animal, they are not abnormal. However, after a month or more, it would be appropriate for the child and his/her family to see a psychologist.

Factors influencing a child’s reaction when a pet dies:

• What the animal means to your child.
• The level of understanding the child has of the concept of death (intellectual maturity).
• The foreseeable or sudden nature of the animal’s death.
• The way death is explained and perceived by the people around him/her, and if the child receives the moral support he/she needs.

Perception of death at different ages:

• Up to age 5, children do not see death as something permanent but rather as something temporary, a bit like sleep. The child always expects that what has disappeared will come back. He/she sees death as accidental, something that can be avoided by being very careful.
  
• Children between the age of 5 and 9 kknow that death is final. This is a great step towards maturity. This is also the age group at which children are able to identify death. At this age, children still think that death is avoidable if one is careful or lucky.
  
• Around 9, most children know that death is final, inevitable and universal. They have learned the adult concept of death. Children realize that all living beings die, including loved ones and themselves. This realization is often accompanied by an awakening and an interest for the hereafter.

To help your child’s grieve :

• If you know that the animal is going to die, it is preferable to discuss this openly with your child. Even though they do not understand everything, children realize that something important is going to happen. Children that are too young to understand the meaning of death will be even more troubled if its arrival is surrounded by whispers.
• Make sure that your child has a privileged relationship with at least one adult, with whom he/she will be able to talk about death and confide in. Never tell the child that he/she is too old to cry. His/her feelings should never be rejected.
• Always explain what is happening in a simple language, without entering into details that can be traumatic for the child.
• Replacing the lost pet too quickly can hinder the normal death acceptance process. The child can see in this animal the pet that he/she had before and ask of it to behave in exactly the same way.
  
  On the other hand, the child can also reject the new pet because he/she believes that by having a new pet, he/she is betraying the one that is gone.